You can't be a pro the first time you try something new
You can’t be a pro the first time you try something new.
This theme repeats in my middle grade books and in my life! I’m still learning it!
In September, I tried to hike on a famous pilgrimage route–Via Francigena. I thought it was going to work, because
- I got an excessively-detailed guidebook from the library,
- set low expectations for how far we could walk,
- made hotel and train reservations,
- and kind of expected the weather to cooperate. Because it was Italy.
Read on for more about my #PilgrimFail.
The plan was a "test" pilgrimage
The plan was to walk on part of the Via Francigena, the pilgrimage route that runs from Canterbury to Rome. But pilgrimages are journeys of discovery.
As in life, things don’t always go the way you expect.
Even though I had learned in Siena that a bus stop doesn’t have to be labeled and can be a steel pole in the ground, we walked right by the bus stop in Montefiascone. It was right at the train station, at the very bottom of a two-mile, steep Via Cevoli that led up to the old town and the Rocca dei Papi–the one-time rock fortress of the popes.
Humidity, heat, and pulling suitcases up a road with heavy traffic defeated this fake pilgrim after the third unlabeled bus stop.
By that point I didn’t care that Google said it was only 15 more minutes. Google also said a bus was coming and there was a young woman waiting at the stop. Good sign, no?
When a small blue bus stopped and she climbed aboard, we followed. The driver waved us aboard and waved away our attempts to buy a ticket.Â
Turning to find a seat, I looked out the back window of the mini-bus–and discovered the real bus behind us!
Thanks friendly driver of the blue bus–we really appreciated the lift.
Faking it might be part of every new venture?
I found this hyper-detailed guidebook at the Cologne Cathedral library (Dombibliothek Köln) and bought a copy before our trip.
I got the “pilgrim passport” at a regular bookstore in Siena for 9 Euro. It felt like faking it to “buy” one.
At the Siena Cathedral, I was sure they would laugh at me when I asked for my first stamp. We were staying in a perfectly comfortable hotel and using public transportation.
Easy, peasy . . .?
This quiet, perfect path was right across the road from our hotel.Â
The weather was also perfect after the torrential rain and the air was cool, just right for walking.
Too bad we were on our way out of town and missed the pilgrimage that might have been.
More proof that we overlook what is right in front of us.
The bustling hub of Montefiascone
One of my favorite memories from this trip is the first day of school pageantry in Montefiascone. Cars unloaded in the middle of the tiny area for bus stops. The mothers and fathers were dressed to the nines and usually carried the kids’ shiny new backpacks. Children wore spotless and freshly pressed school smocks over their new school clothes.
Police officers stood around in their uniforms and didn’t seem to mind the cars parking in the bus stop.
Stopping for a quick–standing at the bar–espresso seemed to be a legitimate reason to park illegally next to a patrol car.
Everyone was in a cheerful mood. I really enjoyed the glimpse into everyday life!
Actually, a pilgrimage by train isn't faking it
 My pilgrim pass offers checkboxes for making your pilgrimage on foot or by train.
On this trip, we took 19 long-distance trains and busses on our way to Rome and back. We had so many connections I made a five-page spreadsheet.Â
The next morning, we were ready to start out . . .
#Protip: Guidebooks for the Via Francigena lead TO Rome. That means it’s really hard to walk in the opposite direction.
After that long, sticky climb with unlabeled bus stop poles on the first day, we were leery about setting out. Then we finally figured out where we could go, only to get caught in a downpour. #WimpyPilgrims
Even equipped with umbrellas from the grocery store, we got soaked.
We gave up our pilgrim plans and did the tourist thing. From our dry table in the cafe on the Piazzale Roma, we sipped our coffee, ate our lunch, and watched intrepid, booted pilgrims strike out for the upper end of Montefiascone.
We saw lots of dedicated pilgrims, with rain capes that covered their packs.
A few dripping pilgrims carefully entered the cafe where we were waiting out the weather. We bought umbrellas, but we still weren’t intrepid enough to walk down the long road to Lake Bolsena. It was humbling.
Real pilgrims dodge traffic, ignore sudden downpours and keep on walking.Â
The friendly server at the cafe pointed at the rain pouring down and grinned at me. “I love the cold weather,” she said.
After having struggled up the steep streets from the train station in the humidity, I could understand why.
Is that volcano faking it?
Lake Bolsena is a caldera and after the rain, when the mists were still heavy and the sun was setting, it was easy to imagine the power of the volcano underneath.
If a volcano can fake it . . .
Maybe we can too? The only difference between practicing and “faking” when we’re trying a new thing is what we feel like inside. There’s still hope for adventure. We can start anywhere since all roads lead to Rome, right?
A magical caldera in Germany plays a life-saving role in this zany adventure about starting at new schools!
Help save the baby dragons!
Back to the practice road . . .
The Cammino de Santiago branches out all over Europe, including little roads in the nearest forest. In Germany, it’s called the Jakobsweg, but they use the same shell symbol to mark the paths.Â
You can also take the St. James Way to Cologne’s famous cathedral.
